There are a lot of new beekeepers in recent years, and this is great. In eastern Nebraska I personally know of approximately 100 beekeepers who started in the last three years! Most of what I do with beekeeping is mentoring of these new beekeepers and I would feel lost without newbees asking me questions.
These new beekeepers all start with one or two hives but beyond that there is a lot of variation. Some of them don't enjoy or don't have the time to enjoy working the hives so not much happens other than installing the package and harvesting honey. Some open the hive every week to do their best to (attempt to) help the bees out. Unfortunately though, no matter what type of beekeeper they want to be, I would say 4 out of 5 of these newbees don't last.
Small scale beekeeping is difficult to get hard numbers on because simply knowing your neighbor has bees brings about unwanted trouble in many situations even though there is no actual harm or danger. Additionally many areas have laws which forbid beekeeping or regulate it so strictly that the beekeeper chooses not to follow the overly stringent requirements. This encourages beekeepers to remain silent in many situations and most are warned not to register their hives unless absolutely necessary.
Given that difficulty there aren't reliable numbers but I do have some observations that are interesting: 3 out of 5 new beekeepers only last a single year. 4 out of 5 new beekeepers only last two years. Why? Beekeeping is not easy. Honeybees do their best to create at least one new hive every year by swarming and there seems to be good reason for this, an established hive has a hard time lasting without serious and careful beekeeper intervention.
Before 1990 a beekeeper could put bees in a box and just check back when they wanted to take some honey out. There were few complications but in general the bees would thrive with little intervention. In 1987 Varroa destructor was introduced to the USA. I believe this mite to be the cause of or a contributing factor to every beehive collapse today.
Varroa destructor is the reason why everyone seems to know someone who used to be a beekeeper. It is also the reason you aren't really a beekeeper until your third year.
Monday, September 27, 2010
Monday, September 20, 2010
A little help for my friends.
A fellow beekeeper asked me this question and I thought it would be a good idea to copy it here:
If we don't have enough (honey), when do we put in additional feed and what form would we use if syrup would freeze?
You need to be done feeding the bees before the first hard frost which is around November 1st in our area.
One option is to feed the bees honey you harvested earlier. Another option is to not feed them, there's a reason they don't have enough stored for the winter and that reason might be one you don't want to have to deal with next year.
If you decide to feed sugar to your bees you will want to use a 2:1 solution for building winter stores. That is 2:1 by weight, so 2 lbs of sugar for 1 lb of water. A gallon of water weighs about 8 lbs and 2 cups of sugar weigh about 1 lb. so 2:1 by volume is just about right as well.
1 gallon of water : 32 cups of sugar
You have mostly Italian bees which are prone to robbing, which is stealing honey from another hive. If you put a feeder into a hive it makes it much more likely that that hive will be robbed so be VERY careful if you do that. An alternative is open feeding where you put the feed in your yard and you rely on the bees to gather it and carry it back to their own hive. This will do a great deal to reduce the likelihood of robbing.
If a hive isn't able to collect the feed that hive won't make it through the winter. You should kill the queen and combine the bees into another hive but be careful - there is a reason that hive isn't storing for the winter and it could be because they have a disease that you don't want to spread to another hive.
As for the syrup freezing that isn't a concern as long as the bees have enough time to correctly store it. If you feed too late the bees won't be able to store it correctly and it may freeze and ferment so the sooner the better!
If we don't have enough (honey), when do we put in additional feed and what form would we use if syrup would freeze?
You need to be done feeding the bees before the first hard frost which is around November 1st in our area.
One option is to feed the bees honey you harvested earlier. Another option is to not feed them, there's a reason they don't have enough stored for the winter and that reason might be one you don't want to have to deal with next year.
If you decide to feed sugar to your bees you will want to use a 2:1 solution for building winter stores. That is 2:1 by weight, so 2 lbs of sugar for 1 lb of water. A gallon of water weighs about 8 lbs and 2 cups of sugar weigh about 1 lb. so 2:1 by volume is just about right as well.
1 gallon of water : 32 cups of sugar
You have mostly Italian bees which are prone to robbing, which is stealing honey from another hive. If you put a feeder into a hive it makes it much more likely that that hive will be robbed so be VERY careful if you do that. An alternative is open feeding where you put the feed in your yard and you rely on the bees to gather it and carry it back to their own hive. This will do a great deal to reduce the likelihood of robbing.
If a hive isn't able to collect the feed that hive won't make it through the winter. You should kill the queen and combine the bees into another hive but be careful - there is a reason that hive isn't storing for the winter and it could be because they have a disease that you don't want to spread to another hive.
As for the syrup freezing that isn't a concern as long as the bees have enough time to correctly store it. If you feed too late the bees won't be able to store it correctly and it may freeze and ferment so the sooner the better!
Friday, September 17, 2010
A change of plans.
I've decided to declare that I will post once a week. I'll also put a photo or video in each post.
Wish me luck!
Wish me luck!
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